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Writer's pictureNombulelo Shinta

Jikaleza: A Struggling Wild Coast Jewel

By Nombulelo Shinta and Leslie Bank


This blog focuses on the current challenges for tourism operators on the Jikaleza Route on the outskirts of East London with a sharp decline in international visitors to the region following the Covid pandemic. However, amidst the gloom, there is also evidence that new black-owned business ventures are targeting tourism as a potential sector for investment. Local villagers are hopeful that the new investments will create jobs and provide inclusivity. The blog highlights a proposal for a new tourist lodge in Gwaba village, Kwelera.


In 2022, the Eastern Cape Business Chamber boldly claimed that tourism in the province was a “sleeping giant” that could unlock future growth and job creation in the region. This followed a statement by the Premier, Oscar Mabuyane, that millions of new “domestic tourists” visited the province every year and that his government was prioritising improved tourist infrastructure to capitalise on this growing market.  Some citizens and tourism operators said that the new post-Covid announcements were empty promises because, “unless the province got the basics right, like ensuring tourist safety, removing potholes, and keeping tourist sites clean, there would be no progress” (Media 24, 24 February 2022).


In a more recent report, it has been reported that international tourism to the Eastern Cape has declined by 49% since the Covid pandemic. The report states that 89% of international visitors do not proceed beyond Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth) and surrounding nature parks and game reserves. This poses a serious challenge for tourist entrepreneurs and lodge operators in the Eastern part of the province, especially around Buffalo City, which has beautiful beaches and established tourist operators.


One of the tourist routes with the greatest potential for growth in Buffalo City is the Jikeleza Route along the Wild Coast east of East London. The route meanders along the coast for around 50 km and transects a landscape of commercial farms, coastal resorts, and former Ciskei villages.  The villagers on this route have historically served tourism as cooks, cleaners and labourers, but are now seeking roles. The problem is that the route is in crisis.


Jikaleza Old and New Lodge Operators


In July 2024, we interviewed some well-known business owners on this route, only to find they were experiencing the toughest times in decades. Sean Price of Buccaneers Backpackers claimed that several lodges on the Jikaleza route were already under “business rescue”, which meant that closures and job losses were inevitable. Price stated that the crisis was caused by the drop-off in (white) upper middle class and international visitors, especially adventure tourists and NGO volunteers. He also mentioned the deteriorating infrastructure and the proliferation of Air-B&Bs.


Figure 1: Image from Bucaneers Backpackers (Taken by Leslie Bank July 2024)


On the latter issue, he stated that the established lodge and tourist operators that anchored the route and employed a stable workforce were undercut by absentee owners who visited the area once or twice a year. He suggested that when absentee holiday homeowners soak up demand, they undermine the capacity of anchor tenants to remain competitive, employ locals and market the route.


But even though the old established lodges are struggling, one new black-owned lodge, Birkview, has sought to tap into the new black middle-class market in the city by hosting jazz events, market days, book launches, weekend fairs and other creative events. The lodge presents a sophisticated Afro-centric cultural vibe for urbanites seeking rural relaxation and escape, It is centred around leisure, elegance and the creative economy rather than just sport and beach fun. Birkview Lodge has brought black-owned, businesses to the heart of the Jikaleza Route, but it is not the only new venture along this strip.


The Proposal for a Tourist Lodge in Gwaba


During fieldwork in Gwaba village in Kwelera situated on the Jikaleza route, the opportunities in tourism came up at community meetings. Gwaba village is divided into two areas: Mtyana (Upper Gwaba) and Lower Gwaba. Community meetings are convened in the villages to address community concerns and gather suggestions on ways to improve the Mtyana community. At a meeting in June 2024, a letter was submitted to the meeting concerning the creation of a tourist lodge in the village. The letter of application was read aloud, allowing the community to share their thoughts on its contents. At this particular meeting, two letters were read. One addressed a family dispute, while the other was written by Sizwe, a former member of the local committee.


Sizwe, who now works in town but remains actively involved in community matters, is highly respected by many. In his letter, he requested a piece of land to build a lodge aimed at attracting tourists and creating job opportunities for the local people. Sizwe highlighted the need for job creation in the village and expressed his belief that a lodge would significantly improve the lives of many residents. He identified an ideal piece of land, far from residential areas, and emphasised that the lodge would benefit not only himself and his family but the entire community.


Having worked in a lodge before, Sizwe has firsthand experience of the potential for financial success in this venture. He sees this as a perfect opportunity for villagers to showcase and enhance their skills. Sizwe also stressed that Gwaba deserves global recognition for its beauty and the talents of its people. For instance, many villagers are skilled in beadwork, but their creations often remain hidden away. He argued that these talents should be shared with the world. Additionally, he pointed out that many graduates in the village are unemployed, and the lodge could provide them with opportunities to apply their knowledge and skills.


After Sizwe’s letter was read, community members were invited to share their thoughts. The majority agreed that Sizwe’s proposal was an excellent idea and praised him for his boldness in wanting to open a lodge in the village. They expressed excitement about the potential for job creation, especially for elderly residents skilled in beadwork, who are often overlooked in employment opportunities. Sizwe assured the community that job candidates from Mtyana would be prioritised over those from other villages, only considering outsiders if no suitable local candidates were available.


However, not everyone was fully convinced. Some community members voiced concerns, recalling a past incident where a young man had made similar promises but failed to deliver. The man had secured land with the community's support but disappeared without fulfilling his promise, leaving the land unused. This experience left many wary of being misled again. The community emphasised that they do not want to be exploited and that Sizwe must follow through on his plans. Should he encounter challenges, they urged him to call a meeting and provide updates, ensuring transparency and continued support.


One gentleman raised another concern, noting that the land Sizwe wanted to use included a family gravesite. However, both Sizwe and the committee assured him that the gravesite would not be disturbed, as they had already taken this into consideration during their discussions.


Sizwe’s idea to open a lodge in Gwaba was welcomed by the local committee and community members with joy. The community expressed excitement that there is an opportunity for their children to work and improve their skills. The elderly who are experienced in beadwork also expressed joy when they heard the idea. Although the community loved the idea, some cautioned Sizwe to not disturb the dead people who are buried close to where he plans to build a lodge. The community promised to support Sizwe in this idea and urged him that, if he faces any challenges, he should let the community members know.


The coastal stretch between East London and Kei Mouth is amongst the most beautiful in South Africa. It has rolling green hills and pristine beaches, and the climate is favourable all year round. The Jikaleza Route is close to the city airport and easily accessible to both domestic and foreign tourists. But once you leave the N2 national road, the access roads crumble into a narrow mess of patches and potholes. The tourist infrastructure along the route, including safety and signage, is poor and the area feels neglected. To create jobs and opportunities for the future, the Eastern Cape government and Buffalo City Tourism must find the resources to re-market and support this route for community empowerment and black business development in the region. The new look, Birkview Lodge and the Gwaba Lodge initiative could be exactly what the route needs for revitalisation and growth.


Figure 2: Recent advertisement for music festival at Birkview Lodge in Chinsta (August 2024)


References

Ngcukana, L. (2022) Eastern Cape Tourism is a 'gold mine', City Press. Available at:https://www.news24.com/citypress/news/eastern-cape-tourism-is-a-gold-mine-20220223(Accessed: 17 July 2024).

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